Snowy Trails |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Knitted sweater in DROPS Karisma or DROPS Daisy. Piece is knitted with raglan, cables and moss stitch. Size: S - XXXL
DROPS 226-16 |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
---------------------------------------------------------- EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN: ---------------------------------------------------------- PATTERN: See diagrams A.1 to A.7. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side. DECREASE/INCREASE TIP (evenly): To calculate how to decrease/increase evenly, use the total number of stitches to be decreased/increased over (e.g. 21 stitches) and divide stitches by number of decreases/increases to be done (e.g. 4) = 5.3. In this example decrease by knitting approx. every 4th and 5th stitch together. When increasing make in this example 1 yarn over after approx. every 5th stitch. On next round work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. INCREASE TIP (applies to mid under sleeve): Increase 2 stitches by making 1 yarn over on each side of stitch with marker mid under sleeve. Work as follows from beginning of round: Work 1 stitch (work this stitch always like the first stitch in A.4), make 1 yarn over, pattern as before until stitch with marker, make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On next round work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the increased stitches in A.4. RAGLAN: Decrease for raglan on each side of marker thread in every transition between sleeves and front/back piece as explained below. In the largest sizes decrease unevenly on front/back piece and sleeves - this is explained in pattern. FROM RIGHT SIDE: DECREASE AS FOLLOWS AFTER MARKER THREAD: Knit 1, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 1 stitch decreased) DECREASE AS FOLLOWS BEFORE MARKER THREAD: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread, knit the next 2 together, knit 1 (= 1 stitch decreased) FROM WRONG SIDE: DECREASE AS FOLLOWS AFTER MARKER THREAD: Purl 1, purl 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased) DECREASE AS FOLLOWS BEFORE MARKER THREAD: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread, purl 2 twisted together, purl 1 (= 1 stitch decreased) ---------------------------------------------------------- START THE PIECE HERE: ---------------------------------------------------------- SWEATER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE: Work body in the round on circular needle from the bottom and up to armholes. Sleeves are worked in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle, from the bottom and up to armholes. Then slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body where stitches for armholes where bind off. Work yoke in the round up to neck line. Bind off stitches for neck mid front. Then work the rest of yoke back and forth on circular needle until finished measurements. Finish with a neck edge in rib and cables. BODY: Cast on 264-280-296-336-352-384 stitches on circular needle size 3.5 MM = US 4 with DROPS Karisma or DROPS Daisy. Knit 1 round. Then work rib as follows: Knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2 *, work from *-* over the next 20-24-28-24-28-36 stitches, work A.1 over the next 14-14-14-28-28-28 stitches (= 1-1-1-2-2-2 repetitions of 14 stitches), work A.2 (= 18 stitches), work A.3 (= 26 stitches), work A.2 (= 18 stitches), Work A.1 over the next 14-14-14-28-28-28 stitches (= 1-1-1-2-2-2 repetitions of 14 stitches), * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* over the next 40-48-56-48-56-72 stitches, knit 2, work A.1 over the next 14-14-14-28-28-28 stitches (= 1-1-1-2-2-2 repetitions of 14 stitches), work A.2 (= 18 stitches), work A.3 (= 26 stitches), work A.2 (= 18 stitches), work A.1 over the next 14-14-14-28-28-28 stitches (= 1-1-1-2-2-2 repetitions of 14 stitches), * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* over the next 20-24-28-24-28-36 stitches, and finish with knit 1. Continue rib like this– NOTE: In diagram A.2 and A.3 repeat only the 2 first rounds vertically. When 1 round remains before piece measures 5 cm = 2", decrease stitches in rib - this is done as follows: Work in stockinette stitch over the first 21-25-29-25-29-37 stitches and decrease at the same time 4-4-4-4-4-6 stitches evenly over these 21-25-29-25-29-37 stitches – read DECREASE/INCREASE TIP, work A.1 as before over the next 14-14-14-28-28-28 stitches, work last round in A.2 (= 18 stitches and 1 stitch decreased), work last round in A.3 (= 26 stitches and 2 stitches decreased), work last round in A.2 (= 18 stitches and 1 stitch decreased), work A.1 as before over the next 14-14-14-28-28-28 stitches, work in stockinette stitch over the next 42-50-58-50-58-74 stitches and decrease at the same time 9-9-9-9-9-13 stitches evenly over these 42-50-58-50-58-74 stitches, work A.1 as before over the next 14-14-14-28-28-28 stitches, work last round in A.2 (= 18 stitches and 1 stitch decreased), work last round in A.3 (= 26 stitches and 2 stitches decreased), work last round in A.2 (= 18 stitches and 1 stitch decreased), work A.1 as before over the next 14-14-14-28-28-28 stitches, work in stockinette stitch over the last 21-25-29-25-29-37 stitches and decrease at the same time 5-5-5-5-5-7 stitches evenly over these 21-25-29-25-29-37 stitches = 238-254-270-310-326-350 stitches. Rib is now done. Insert 1 marker in first stitch and 1 marker in the 120th-128th-136th-156th-164th-176th stitch on round (= in the side on body). Move markers upwards when working. Bind off stitches for armholes later on each side of these markers. Switch to circular needle size 4.5 MM = US 7. Pattern begins and first round is worked as follows: Work A.4 over the first 17-21-25-21-25-31 stitches, work A.5 over the next 14-14-14-28-28-28 stitches (= 1-1-1-2-2-2 repetitions of 14 stitches, work A.6 (= 17 stitches), work A.7 (= 24 stitches), work A.6 (= 17 stitches), work A.8 over the next 14-14-14-28-28-28 stitches (= 1-1-1-2-2-2 repetitions of 14 stitches), work A.4 over the next 33-41-49-41-49-61 stitches (marker in the side is in the middle of these stitches), work A.5 over the next 14-14-14-28-28-28 stitches (= 1-1-1-2-2-2 repetitions of 14 stitches), work A.6 (= 17 stitches), work A.7 (= 24 stitches), work A.6 (= 17 stitches), work A.8 over the next 14-14-14-28-28-28 stitches (= 1-1-1-2-2-2 repetitions of 14 stitches), and work A.4 over the last 16-20-24-20-24-30 stitches. Continue this pattern. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! When piece measures 26 cm = 10¼" in all sizes, bind off stitches for armholes as explained below - read DECREASE TIP. Approx. 24-26-28-30-32-34 cm = 9½"-10¼"-11"-11¾"-12½"-13⅜" remain until finished measurements Adjust so that next round is an odd number of rows in the diagrams and bind off as follows: Bind off 6-6-7-7-8-8 stitches for armhole, continue pattern as before until 5-5-6-6-7-7 stitches remain before next stitch with marker, bind off 11-11-13-13-15-15 stitches for armhole, work as before until 5-5-6-6-7-7 stitches remain on round, and bind off the last 5-5-6-6-7-7 stitches = 108-116-122-142-148-160 stitches remain for front piece and 108-116-122-142-148-160 stitches remain for back piece. Cut the yarn. Put piece aside, and work the sleeves. SLEEVE: Cast on 60-60-64-64-68-68 stitches on double pointed needles size 3.5 MM = US 4 with DROPS Karisma or DROPS Daisy. Knit 1 round. Then work rib in the round (= knit 2/purl 2) for 10 cm = 4". Knit 1 round while increasing 27-27-25-25-23-23 stitches evenly - remember DECREASE/INCREASE TIP = 87-87-89-89-91-91 stitches. Insert 1 marker in first stitch on round - move marker upwards when working. Use marker later when increasing mid under sleeve. Switch to double pointed needles size 4.5 MM = US 7. Pattern begins and first round is worked as follows: Work A.4 over the first 1-1-2-2-3-3 stitches (marker is in first stitch), work A.5 (= 14 stitches), work A.6 (= 17 stitches), work A.7 (= 24 stitches), work A.6 (= 17 stitches), work A.8 (= 14 stitches), and finish with A.4 over the last 0-0-1-1-2-2 stitches. Continue this pattern. When piece measures 12-12-12-12-14-11 cm = 4¾"-4¾"-4¾"-4¾"-5½"-4⅜", increase 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 6½-3½-3-2½-2-2 cm = 2½"-1¼"-1⅛"-1"-¾"-¾" 6-10-11-13-14-16 times in total = 99-107-111-115-119-123 stitches. Continue until sleeve measures approx. 48-47-45-45-44-43 cm = 19"-18½"-17¾"-17¾"-17¼"-17" (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider neck and longer yoke). Try the sleeve and work to desired length. Adjust so that next round is an odd number of rows in the diagrams. On next round bind off stitches for armhole as follows: Bind off 6-6-7-7-8-8 stitches, work as before until 5-5-6-6-7-7 stitches remain on round, and bind off the last 5-5-6-6-7-7 stitches = 88-96-98-102-104-108 stitches. Cut the yarn. Work the other sleeve the same way. YOKE: Slip sleeves on to same circular needle size 4.5 MM = US 7 as body where armholes were bind off (without working the stitches first) = 392-424-440-488-504-536 stitches on needle. Insert a marker thread in all transitions between front/back piece and sleeves = 4 marker threads. Move marker threads upwards when working. Use marker threads when decreasing for raglan. Begin round in transition between back piece and left sleeve - insert a marker here to mark the beginning of round. Continue the pattern upwards as before, but work stitch on each side of all the 4 marker threads in stockinette stitch (= 2 stitches in stockinette stitch in every transition between front/back piece and sleeves). Work 1 round with pattern in the round over all stitches. OVERVIEW OF NEXT SECTION: On next round begin decrease for raglan. In the largest sizes decrease unevenly for body and sleeves. Cast in addition off stitch for neck mid front, and work the last rows back and forth from mid front. When there is not enough stitches for cables, work in stockinette stitch over these stitches. Read section RAGLAN and NECK before continuing. RAGLAN – SIZE S, M and L: Decrease for RAGLAN on each side of the 4 markers - read explanation above. Decrease every other round 15-19-21 times in total, and then every round 18-17-17 times in total. RAGLAN – SIZE XL, XXL and XXXL:: Decrease for RAGLAN before/after the 4 markers - read explanation above. EVERY OTHER ROUND: In each side on sleeves: Decrease 25-29-32 times in total. In each side on front and back piece: Decrease 13-17-16 times in total. EVERY ROUND: In each side on sleeves: Decrease 12-9-8 times in total. In each side on front and back piece: Decrease 35-33-40 times in total. NECK (applies to all sizes): When piece measures 47-49-51-53-55-57 cm = 18½"-19¼"-20"-21"-21⅝"-22½" (adjust so that next round is an uneven round in diagram), decrease 6 stitches evenly over the middle 24 stitches (= A.7) – remember DECREASE/INCREASE TIP. Then slip the middle 20-22-24-24-26-26 stitches on front piece on 1 stitch holder for neck. Continue until beginning of round. Cut the yarn. Begin from wrong side at the neck and continue pattern back and forth. AT THE SAME TIME bind off for neck at the beginning of every row from neck as follows: Bind off 2 stitches 2 times and 1 stitch 1 time in each side. After all decreases for raglan and neck, 92-98-96-108-110-110 stitches remain. Cut the yarn. Work neck edge as explained below. NECK EDGE: Begin mid back and pick up approx. 122-130-130-142-146-146 stitches around the neck (including stitches on stitch holders at the front) on a short circular needle size 3.5 MM = US 4. On next round decrease evenly to avoid a wide neck - knit 1 round and decrease at the same time evenly to 92-96-100-104-108-112 stitches. Purl 1 round. On next round increase stitches to avoid the pattern to be worked from contracting - knit 1 round and increase at the same time 28-24-20-26-32-28 stitches evenly = 120-120-130-130-140-140 stitches. Work A.9 in the round (= 12-12-13-13-14-14 repetitions of 10 stitches). Work until neck edge measures approx. approx. 8-8-8-10-10-10 cm = 3⅛"-3⅛"-3⅛"-4"-4"-4" or desired length. On next round decrease 1 stitch over each cable = 108-108-117-117-126-126 stitches remain. Then bind off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl. ASSEMBLY: Sew the openings under the sleeves tog. |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Diagram explanations |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
Comments / Questions (81)
Mareike wrote:
Hallo, ich habe zwei Fragen zu der Halsblende, genauer zu dem Teil mit den abketten. Wo genau sollen die Maschen abgekettet werden? Ist das am Ende der Halsblende, also am Übergang zwischen den Ärmeln und Vorderteil und von da aus Richtung Hinterteil? Und wann sollen 2 Maschen abgekettet werden und wann 1? Ist das eine für die Hin-Reihe und eine für die Rück-Reihe?
09.06.2024 - 16:05DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Mareike, man wird zuerst die mittleren Maschen für den Halsausschnitt stilllegen, dann wird die Arbeit in Hin-und Rückreihen ab Halsausschnitt weitergestrickt, am Anfang jeder Reihe (Hin- sowie Rückreihe) werden Sie Maschen für den Halsausschnitt abketten: so 2 Mal 2 M + 1 Mal 1 M beidseitig = 2 Maschen am Anfang der nächsten 4 Reihen + 1 Masche am Anfang der nächsten 2 Reihen (die Raglanabnahmen gleichzeitig weiterstricken). Viel Spaß beim Stricken!
10.06.2024 - 08:27Méabh wrote:
Hi, I have a question about the neck. Why should one bind off and then pick up stitches afterwards? Would it not be easier to just decrease?
28.05.2024 - 09:35DROPS Design answered:
Dear Méabh, only the stitches on each side of the middle stitches on front piece (put aside) will be cast off, this might help for a better shape. Happy knitting!
28.05.2024 - 13:07Grethe Swan Hellem wrote:
Lurer på om det er en regnefeil på halsen i str L. "... strikk 1 omgang rett og fell samtidig jevnt fordelt til 92-96-(100)-104-108-112 masker. Strikk 1 omgang vrang. På neste ... sammen – strikk 1 omgang rett og øk samtidig 28-24-(20)-26-32-28 masker jevnt fordelt = 120-120-(130)-130-140-140 masker." Sliter litt med å få 100 + 20 til å bli 130....
26.04.2024 - 17:05DROPS Design answered:
Hei Grethe, Du har rett. Det skal være 120 masker etter økningen. God fornøyelse!
29.04.2024 - 06:54Paulette Pol wrote:
Après avoir tricoté les manches, je vais aborder l'empiècement. Comme les manches et le corps ne finissent pas au même niveau des diagrammes, je doute beaucoup de la suite. Faudra-t-il faire avancer les points fantaisie différemment selon les parties considérées? J'espère m'être expliquée assez correctement pour que vous compreniez mon problème et vous remercie de votre aide, toujours aussi efficace.
26.04.2024 - 04:01DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Pol, effectivement, vous devez continuer les points fantaisie du dos/du devant et des manches pour qu'ils continuent ceux que vous avez tricoté auparavant, donc il est possible qu'ils soient différents sur les manches et le dos/le devant, ce qui compte avant tout c'est de bien avoir les torsades à faire sur un même tour et que les motifs continuent. Bon tricot!
26.04.2024 - 07:52Zoonia Adeel wrote:
Is there a video for the neck? I'm so confused at the neck instructions
18.03.2024 - 11:10DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Adeel, starting on mid back you will pick up the stitches around neckline, including the stitches from thread on front piece, then knit 1 round decreasing evenly to 92-112 sts, then purl 1 round, knit 1 round increasing evenly to 120-140 sts (decreasing/increasing let the neckedge looking nicer); and now work A.9 in the round. Happy knitting!
18.03.2024 - 15:11Wenche wrote:
Hei Jeg forstår ikke helt raglanfellingen i str xxl. Skal jeg felle annenhver omg først, og så på hver omg, eller er det ment at jeg skal felle ulikt hele veien fra start til slutt, ulikt. Veldig forvirrende skrevet i oppskriften, og ønsker en tydeliggjøring på hva som skal gjøres her. Snowy trails. Mvh Wenche
01.03.2024 - 12:42DROPS Design answered:
Hei Wenche, Du feller annenhver omgang 29 ganger på ermene og 17 ganger på bolen. Når du er ferdig med de annenhver på bolen, fortsetter du med annenhver på ermene til riktig antall, men feller hver omgang på bolen 33 ganger. Når du er ferdig med annenhver på ermene, feller du hver omgang 9 ganger. Håper det hjelper og god fornøyelse!
04.03.2024 - 11:22Elina wrote:
Dank voor dit mooie patroon. Een vraag: er staat bij maat S dat de hals start als het lijf 48 cm meet. Zou dit niet 43 cm moeten zijn? Met 5 cm boord, 26 cm lijf, 19 cm pas en 5 cm halsboord kom ik volgens het patroon uit op 50 cm totale lengte, maar dan zouden de halsminderingen in de boord plaats moeten vinden.
25.02.2024 - 08:12DROPS Design answered:
Dag Elina,
De totale hoogte vanaf de boord aan de onderkant tot de schouder is 50 cm, dit is als je het werk plat neerlegt en exclusief de halsboord. Ik denkt dat de getallen dan wel kloppen, want je moet na de 48 cm nog een paar naalden heen en weer breien en dan kom je ongeveer op 50 cm.
25.02.2024 - 10:24Anna wrote:
Jeg strikker trøjen i størrelse small og er nået til halsen. Jeg har sat de 20 forreste masker på en snor og har strikket hen til starten. Jeg er nu nået til: SAMTIDIG lukkes der af til hals på begyndelsen af hver pind fra halsen således: Luk 2 masker af 2 gange og 1 maske 1 gang i hver side. Jeg forstår simpelthen ikke hvad jeg skal. Kan I hjælpe med at forklare det?
13.02.2024 - 13:39Cambazard wrote:
J ai un souci avec les marqueurs en utilisant les chiffres indiqués les marqueurs se situe au milieu du dos et pas au niveau des côtés du pull, pouvez vous m aider ?
11.02.2024 - 15:34DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Cambazard, vous devez bien avoir le bon nombre de mailles de chaque côté des 2 marqueurs, soit 1 maille avec 1 marqueur, puis 118-126-134-154-162-174 m, 1 maille avec 1 marqueur (= la 120ème-128ème-136ème-156ème-164ème-176ème maille du tour), et 118-126-134-154-162-174 m jusqu'à la fin du tour soit un total de 238-254-270-310-326-350 m. Bon tricot!
12.02.2024 - 08:32Tine Kjærbye wrote:
Jeg forstår ikke indtagningerne i ribben. Skal maskerne forskydes når man tager ind i A2 række 3? Og i forklaringen står, at der er taget 2 m. ind ved 3. række i A.3, men ifølge diagrammet skal man strikke 2 gange ved siden af hinanden. Hvor kommer indtagningerne ind?
08.02.2024 - 10:14DROPS Design answered:
Hei Tine. I diagram A.2 og A.3 gentages kun de 2 første omgange i højden, altså indtagningerne i A.2 og A.3 strikkes kun siste gang diagrammene strikkes. Og da vil vrangborden stemme med mønstret / diagrammene som skal strikkes etter vrangborden. mvh DROPS Design
16.02.2024 - 10:35